The Amalfi Coast is perhaps one of Italy’s most impressive tourist destinations, located in the south of the peninsula, in the province of Salerno. The 37 kilometers from Salerno to the Sorrentine Peninsula are sprinkled with legends that have gone around the world – for example, this is the place where Ulysses had to be tied to the mast of the ship, and the whole crew had their ears waxed to avoid being lured by the haunting song of the sirens, a song that would have brought them death. Then, the wild nature, olive and lemon groves, caves and beaches (like the Grotta del Smeraldo), and love spent in places like the Fiordo de Furore (film buffs are undoubtedly familiar with the tumultuous love story between Anna Magnani, the beautiful actress, and Roberto Rossellini, the even more famous director).
The Amalfi Coast is the place where the mountain meets the sea, and the colorful houses bear witness to the inhabitants who live in this fairytale landscape. It is one of the most visited regions in southern Italy and has one of the most beautiful shores of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
We won’t talk about popular places on the Amalfi Coast, such as the famous Positano, Amalfi, Salerno, or Sorrento. Of course, you must include these well-known places in your itinerary to enjoy their beauty. Instead, you’ll read about a few places that aren’t exactly taken by storm but which are no slouches when it comes to magnetism. You’ll discover a few restaurants with family menus where you can dine confidently, and you’ll finally learn some interesting facts about limoncello and the lemons from which this liqueur, dubbed ‘the gold of the Amalfi Coast’, is made. Let’s explore Amalfi Coast in our way:
Walk through Agerola, the “city of bread”
Agerola, known as the City of Bread (Città del Pane), is surrounded by the stunning Monti Lattari (Lattari Mountains) and lies at the center of an extensive network of hiking trails. The scenic route beginning from Positano, the Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods) is a great way to reach the beach by car or on foot.
Museo Etnoantropologico, which houses an ancient cross and artifacts from different ages, is a great place to learn about the local history. Its cuisine is closely linked to the animals raised in the region. Agerolese cattle produce special milk for cheese, and the locals have high-quality salami from pigs. The local bakeries make some fantastic products, too, and Agerola is a great place to taste these ingredients, especially its magnificent bread.
While here, keep in mind that a special type of rose was cultivated in Agerola during the Middle Ages: the white “rosaria”, which was used to make perfume essences, a flourishing industry until the end of the seventeenth century. In 1844, Agerola became part of the city of Naples.
Explore the artistic part of Ravello
Ravello is a fantastic city, even if it’s not close to the shore but perched on a mountain in the vicinity of the Coast. It is well-known for its gorgeous sea views, but at the same time, artists and musicians such as E.M. Forster, Richard Wagner, Gore Vidal, D.H. Lawrence, and M.C. Escher have all found inspiration for their crafts. That’s why Ravello is the perfect place to unleash your artistic side. Consider spending an afternoon writing in a café or setting up an easel to paint. Whether you create a masterpiece or not, you’ll still gain a deeper understanding of the artistic history of the Amalfi Coast’s Ravello.
Discover a secret garden in Maiori
A fascinating and significant building of the Amalfi Coast rises on the main street of Maiori: the Palazzo Mezzacapo – a glorious example of architecture and decoration from the eighteenth century. Palazzo Mezzacapo used to be the home of a family that prospered from the timber and coal trade.
A close look at the paths and canals framed by flowerbeds will reveal a secret: at the center of the space is a Maltese cross, a tribute to the family’s belonging to different orders. This watercourse that runs along the arms of the cross wasn’t built just for decoration but also for moving mill blades and irrigating a lemon grove that no longer exists.
From the strange shape of the Maltese cross, from the violets of the rose garden, you can see underground pools communicating, connected by a branch of the Reginna: a bizarre strategy to stay cool during the summer. You will be fascinated by this garden, so do not miss the opportunity to visit it!
Accommodate in a former monastery in Conca dei Marini
Conca dei Marini is home to Monastero Santa Rosa, a former monastery from the 17th century that has been transformed into an exclusive resort. An intimate retreat with just 20 bedrooms sits high on the cliffs of Monte San Pancrazio near the town of Amalfi. The exclusive space offers four levels of vibrant gardens, lush landscaping, and plenty of lounge chairs.
The resort is perfect for honeymooners and anyone seeking absolute tranquility. In the luxury spa, you can relax with massages, a hydro pool, and steam rooms. You can also find several secret gardens at the Monastero Santa Rosa and enjoy hours of extreme relaxation. The hotel has created memorable experiences by building on the history of the building. You can, for example, ring the monastery bell upon arrival to notify them that you’re there. The staff is so friendly that you do feel like you’re at home.
Hidden beautiful beaches to discover on Amalfi Coast
Of course, on the Amalfi Coast, you won’t find the wide beaches that you’ll see, for example, in the Rimini area, in the northeastern part of Italy. The terrain doesn’t allow for wide stretches of sand. However, the Amalfi Coast is dotted with small, pebbly beaches, with almost every town having at least one. Tourists usually head for the city beaches, which automatically become the most popular and, in high season, nearly suffocatingly crowded. However, on the Amalfi Coast, some places aren’t quite on everyone’s beaten path. Here’s where to find some beaches to enjoy almost exclusively:
Fjord of Furore
Furore is a coastal village of about 800 people located between Amalfi and Positano. The not-so-ordinary fjord of Furore was created by a continuous creek that runs down the mountain into the sea. As well as hosting a friendly fishing village, the fjord is bypassed by a road with a suspended 30 meters high bridge, from which the World Great Heights Diving Championships are held every summer.
With its small and charming beach, the fjord forms a natural lagoon. That’s why, during the summer months, the entire area becomes a hidden grotto perfect for sun-seekers to enjoy the Amalfi Coast.
Furore’s narrow route down to the fjord is less than 300 meters long, so you can only access the village on a moped, although buses run from Amalfi-Agerola and Amalfi-Positano to Furore. The ancient Romans settled here due to its secluded location and natural defenses, which have allowed it to remain relatively unexplored to this day.
The Bay of Ieranto
Take a tour of the Bay of Ieranto, home to the sirens of the Odyssey who, according to legend, bewitched Ulysses. To reach the Baia di Ieranto (Bay of Ieranto), drive to Nerano, on the west side of the Sorrento peninsula. The cove offers the opportunity to swim and view the sea stacks of Capri on the horizon.
There are crags, cliffs, and natural caves up until Punta Campanella. If you listen carefully, you can hear the lapping of the waves and the sea echo in the hollows of the rock. Whenever you listen to this song, you will feel like you are the Greek hero, distracted from his journey home.
Baths of Queen Giovanna
“Bagni della Regina Giovanna.” This is the Italian name for this beach/grotto formed by a rock barrier along the Coast close to Sorrento. In all likelihood, you won’t find a pool anywhere in the world that’s as perfect as this one. So it isn’t surprising that royalty like Giovanna d’Angio, the 14th century Queen of Naples, chose this as her personal swimming pool. On one side of the grotto, you can see Sorrento, while on the other, you can see Capri.
The location of Bagni della Regina Giovanna is another attractive aspect. Within fifteen minutes of the city center, you can arrive at the entrance, which is situated on the Cape of Sorrento. The hidden pool is then accessible by an easy hike. Even though Bagni della Regina Giovanna is close to Sorrento, it is never crowded.
Fjord of Crapolla
Due to its inaccessibility, this fjord/cove is hidden and uncrowded. It may be challenging to get there, but the rewards are worth the effort. Fiordo di Crapolla is accessible through Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, a historical village near the Sorrento Peninsula between the Gulfs of Naples and Serrano. Views of Capri and the Li Galli islands can be seen from the town.
Getting here requires a 45-minute walk from town to the Coast, culminating in a 650-step descent. In this case, don’t forget that, as you leave, you’ll have to climb 650 steps, so you’ll get your cardio in. You will be greeted by untouched beauty and ancient history once you arrive. A Roman villa and ancient fishing village stand next to the lagoon waters of the little cove. In a way, it is quite impressive to know that you will be able to sunbathe in the same waters as the ancient Romans nearly 2,000 years ago.
Arienzo Beach
Because of its long descent, Arienzo Beach is known as the 300-step beach. But the reward provides an impressive setting for an unforgettable day. It is the cove in Positano that has the longest afternoon sun.
Pebbles that the sea has smoothed are mixed with the sand on the beach. Besides the free area, there are beach umbrellas, deckchairs, a restaurant, and a bar. How can you reach it? It’s about 1,5 km away from the center in the direction of Praiano.
“Secret” restaurants on the Amalfi Coast
You can’t go to Italy without thinking about the food. And without enjoying it. Italy is paradise when it comes to delicious food, and Italy’s gastronomy – simple and full of flavor – is sure to please everyone. You eat well wherever you go in Italy, so it’s the same on the Amalfi Coast. In fact, things are impressively good when you consider that there are no less than 9 Michelin-starred restaurants here, a very large number for a relatively small region.
Of course, Michelin-starred restaurants attract a lot of customers. If you want to try some of the top dishes, then you should consider places like Il Refettorio (in Conca dei Marini), Glicine (in Amalfi) or Il Faro di Capo d’Orso (in Maiori). These are restaurants where, in addition to great food, you also get spectacular sea views.
But not everyone can book a table at a Michelin-starred restaurant, can they? Restaurants are everywhere on the Amalfi Coast, but the question that always arises is: which are the best and which one to choose for the best value for money? Plus, because we’re talking about the Amalfi Coast, the place should be filled with a special ambiance. That’s why we searched and found these three restaurants on the Amalfi Coast, which you almost have to test yourself:
Le Arcate (Atrani)
Address: Largo Orlando Buonocore, 84010 Atrani
Authentic dishes such as homemade pasta and dishes cooked with fresh fish are available at Le Arcate. This restaurant is located in Atrani and specializes in dishes like scialatielli con gamberi e zucchine (short, thick pasta with prawns and zucchini), grigliata di pesce (grilled fish), paccheri con pesce spada (large tube pasta with swordfish), and frittura mista (mixed fried seafood).
Suppose you want to end the meal with a local dessert delicacy, order pasticciotto atranese, a pastry filled with custard and black cherries. This restaurant has a fantastic atmospheric setting: outside, the table is just a few meters from the sea, while inside, a cave offers a great place to relax.
Il Ritrovo (Positano)
Address: Piazza Cappella, 3, 84017 Positano
At Ristorante Il Ritrovo, you will experience fresh mountain air and a beautiful setting while you enjoy meat and seafood specialties. Its menu, which changes depending on the catch of the day and the season, is located on Montepertuso uplands, just beyond Positano.
Fried fish, calamari sale e pepe, and salsa saracena are all must-try dishes. Zuppa saracena features king prawns, cuttlefish, prawns, and rockfish in a broth with homemade croutons. The owner grows his own vegetables, and there is a special selection of Salerno reds in the cellar if you prefer a good wine with your meal.
Ristorante Maria Grazia (Nerano)
Address: Marina del Cantone, 80061 Nerano
The seafood restaurant Maria Grazia has a long history in the area. There is little difference between a fisherman’s diner and a VIP restaurant when it serves great food. The restaurant started in the early 20th century on Nerano Beach, where sailors used to gather and eat together.
Currently, the restaurant is one of the most important pieces of local gastronomic history. Among the dishes in their kitchens is spaghetti alla Nerano made with courgettes. In addition to the meat and fish specialties, you can enjoy a chilled white wine flavored with slices of peach, served with your main course.
Limoncello, the pride of Amalfi and Sorrento Coast
You’ve certainly heard about the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento Coast lemons. Many say these are the best lemons in the world and can practically not be argued with. These lemons are used to make limoncello, the liqueur that has long since spread beyond Italy’s borders and attracts visitors to the Amalfi Coast like a magnet, adding extra flavor to these beautiful sunny regions.
Amalfi Coast lemons are an impressive variety of lemons. The Italian name – Sfusato Amalfitano (the other sort is called Ovale di Sorrento) – refers to the conical shape of the fruit, distinctly different from the rounder varieties of lemons grown elsewhere in Italy. Amalfi Coast lemons are larger than other varieties: fruits weigh at least 100 grams. The medium to thick skin is pale yellow in color. The peel has a particularly intense lemon flavor due to the essential oils. The flesh is acidic and very juicy, but not so sweet. Amalfi Coast lemons contain few seeds compared to others.
Lemons from this region are traditionally used to make limoncello. They are also served on the side of salads and meals, sometimes as a dressing. They are perfect for cooking because of their taste and lack of seeds. Pair with fish for a classic taste. The peel and flesh are useful in baking and are also key bases in several desserts in the region. Lemons are best stored in plastic bags in the refrigerator and will keep for up to a month.
In addition to making limoncello, these lemons also inspire numerous pastries sold in the charming pasticceries of the towns. Desserts like lemon tarts, lemon shaved ice, granita, delizia, and lemon gelato or sorbet are among the most popular. You can buy chocolates and candies filled with lemon limoncello cream. Lemons can even be used to make soap, lotions, face creams, and other potions.
But back to the limoncello. Limoncello is a lemon liqueur originating in southern Italy, especially in the region around the Bay of Naples, the Sorrentine peninsula, the Amalfi Coast, and the islands of Procida, Ischia, and Capri. The first limoncello recipe was made more than 100 years ago. The liqueur usually has a slightly cloudy appearance, which comes from the oil droplets suspended in the drink.
Traditionally, limoncello is made from lemon peel soaked in rectified spirit until the oil gets out. The yellow liquid that results is then mixed with simple syrup. The sugar-water ratio and temperature variation affects clarity, viscosity, and flavor. Limoncello is the result of spontaneous emulsification (also known as the ouzo effect) of the sugar syrup and extracted lemon oils. Limoncello is traditionally served cold after dinner by Italians and has a digestive role.
Along the Sorrento Peninsula and Amalfi Coast, it is served in small ceramic glasses, which are also chilled. This tradition has been carried over to other parts of Italy.
If you’re in southern Italy, you can order limoncello in a chilled glass after dinner – there is often no charge for this. Limoncello can also be ordered at almost any restaurant or bar in Italy. However, a visit to the Amalfi Coast is a great way to appreciate the cultivation of lemons and the manufacture of limoncello. You can experience it in a few ways.
For example, you can visit a limoncello producer. On your own or in a group, It is possible to visit lemon groves where the sfusato amalfitano and ovale di Sorrento lemons are grown. Numerous large-scale limoncello producers exist throughout the region. Producing the beverage involves many people and specialized machinery – the lemons are peeled, the recipe is created, and the packages, corks, and labels are applied. It’s enjoyable to watch the assembly line in action.
One of the places where you can do this is Liquorificio Carlo Mansi, in Minori, where it produces the brand called Limunciel. Another one is Terra di Limone, also in Minori or Pieme, one of the largest producers in Piano di Sorrento.
There are many different types of bottles you will find along the Amalfi Coast, from tall cylinders to flasks-looking bottles, all boasting the best quality or secret recipe. Several generations of family businesses also bottle their varieties and sell them. Additionally, many individuals make their own. Gourmet and gift shops are filled with limoncello bottles in Naples, Sorrento, Amalfi, and on the outlying islands of Procida, Ischia, and Capri.